"Why don't lots of tourists want to speak with us?"
This is the question posed to us by two guys on a motorbike who had pulled over asking to talk to us.
"Probably because they always want to sell us something or get something out of it" was our reply." That or because we just get it so much!"
To prove not everyone in Nepal is like those "bloody shop owners", they invited us to eat dinner at their place that night. Nothing needed in return. Personally I wasn't that keen (sadly still highly skeptical about all 'free' offers) but we agreed and as Jo pointed out, it could be cool to hang with some locals for a change.
So that night we met them at a bar and they bought us a free beer. Or one for Jo anyway. I declined as I still didn't like the whole 'free' idea and wanted to keep a clear head. I'd heard about a thing called a gem scam in India and as these guys had said they were jewellers, I was a little weary.
So on the way to the car from the bar, I tried to seperate Jo to explain that I reckon we should be careful as I was worried about a scam going on. I couldn't really say anything without them overhearing and Jo had never heard of a gem scam sadly but he's not stupid and the word scam got across and instantly put him on guard too.
When we got into the car I was a little worried they would drive us somewhere and we wouldn't be able to get back. So i was watching the clock as I wasn't going to go further than 15 minutes worth (walking distance still, I figured) and I was watching carefully all the turns we made. Luckily it turned out their place was actually fairly close to our guesthouse.
So we turn up at their house and they start offering us beers and weed. Hmmm. Cool. Only why are they not drinking too? I ask them a couple of times why they don't join us and they make all sorts of stupid excuses. Then one comes out of the kitchen (we'd met two on the bike but at the house there were around 8 or so living together) and says he's drinking with us. Hmmm, yeah. Like a shot worth of beer! To me, it seemed they were so obviously trying to get us light headed.
Then we sat down to eat and that really was cool. Free is always good for a start, plus it was a good meal. Beef curry, veges and chapatti. It was good.
Meanwhile, while we've been seated and chatting, their occupation had obviously come up in conversation. How surprising. Hahhaa, ooooh. Next thing we know we're being shown rubies and being told about how we could earn thousands of Euro in just a few days; easy as. Just help them transport them to Europe.
Man, how dumb do we look?! It was such the gem deal I almost cracked up right there. But we played it cool as we were getting a free meal and I still wasn't easy with all of them around us. My money belt was tightly wrapped around my ankle and I was keeping my back to the wall - seriously. Probably a bit over the top but ya never know.
Around 11 or so maybe, we said we were pretty tired and were going to head home to bed. So we organised to meet them again the next morning and join them for a boat ride around the lake.
Moment we were outside (after declining an offer for a lift home), I felt so much better! And just laughed. Jo too. All the way home. Explained the whole deal with gem scams to Jo as well and then this time I was the one keen to join them the next day to go for a free boat ride but Jo, sensibly, suggested that maybe we shouldn't encourage them anymore and so we headed off to Annapurna early next day instead.
So as for their original question, "Why don't lots of tourists want to speak with us?" Easy! Because you're bloody con artists!
N.B Gem scam:
A network of con artsists present you with an opportunity to profit from buying discount gems from them. They try and convince you to buy gems at a discount price and bring them overseas to sell for a massive profit. That or transport gems for them, leaving a small 'donation' as insurance to stop you from running off with their jewels. Of course what you really transport is glass or some other rubbish and you'll never see your hard earned cash 'donation' again.
Nov 21, 2007
Motorbike mission to the moon and back
So bikes have won out and we've decided smelly, farty, spitty camels can wait. Perhaps in Israel ? Instead we are going to try and reach Everest by bike. Impossible some would say? Ha! Whatever...
Day One:
Like a re-usable battery, Jo was in charge. I was still feeling a little grotty and so had opted for the tandem bike option in case it was Giardia that I had and the"explosive diorrhea" I had read about set in. I didn't want to have to worry about dealing with a bike too if that was the case. It was a 180cc road bike we shared with plenty of omph for us we figured (just enough in reality). Jo was happy as we were also saving a few dollars and so with my legs safely wrapped round his arse (this was to become very tiring after 5 days of biking!), we set off into the sunset (or just about. It took us like 5 hours to get going! Ended up being a 3pm, '8am', start).
Our first target was Kathmandu. At 180 kms it would be a 6 hour ride we figured; averaging around 30km/hr. The roads really are this bad! And it turned out this was the case; arriving in Kath at around 9pm that night. With a car though what a joke! We passed around 100 trucks, cars and buses (for real) all stuck in this massive jam because one truck had over loaded itself at the top of a hill. Bikes are tops in these over populated countries.
When we did arrive we had panda eyes from the pollution and arses to match - purple with bruises from the hundreds of pot holes on the way. These bikes were not made for bumps and these roads were not made for vehicles!
Day Two:
We set off from Kathmandy in high spirits. A 'Germany Breakfast' in our bellies and we decided a trip to the Tibetan border would be the goal of the day. The coffee they served us was full of speed and had left me feeling a bit seedy and Jo wired like a bad Thai street lamp. So again, we set off on the one bike keen to escape the maddening rush of Kath and all its 'glories' - rubbish, cows, rubbish heaps, cows in rubbish heaps, smog, noise etc.
We cruised for around 8 hours and I swear my arse will be flat if this continues for the next 7 days! On the way we came upon a town called Tatopani. A name we recognised from the trek as meaning 'hot spring'. As can only be expected, we ended up staying the night here, our goal of the border left till the morning while we enjoyed our night time sausage fest.
Seriously. We paid 10 rupees (20c) for a 'hot pool' which turned out to be four shower heads with about 20 guys showering under them. There was more sausage hanging round than at a German Bratwurst festival! The other option was to pay 100 rupees for a room with a bath. But they were hot and we were clean for once.
Day Three:
Next morning we suprisingly opted to skip the morning shower option and head straight for the border. Then for the new day's goal of Jiri; the town where the trek to Everest sets off from. 3 minute ride to the border and a 1 minute walk took us into 'China'. Filthy communistic thieves! There wasn't even a sign saying the word Tibet! And they told us no pictures. Tell a guy not to do something...
Picture of 'China':
After being denied access past the official border post, we headed off for Jiri. Grabbing some 'air' biscuits for lunch on the way (you could actually breath through them!) we made it in time for a real lunch at around 3pm. We'd picked up a guesthouse owner on the way and so stayed at his place.
Over dinner there was talk of a trek to Everest (secretly we planned to take the bikes) but the news quickly took a turn for the worse when a proper guide (as opposed to just a nosey local) joined in and we learnt that it was at least 3 days to the nearest lookout point just to lay eyes on the prize. And bikes were a no go unless they were moon capable. Was ours? Hmmm? I wonder...
Ah well. That's life. So with our true goal stolen from us like this bracelet of Jo's I'm wearing, we decided to head back to Kath the next day and re-plan from there.
Day Four:
Seeing as we were headin back to Kath, we decided to look in on some burning dead bodies while we were at it. Ghats they call them over here. There's one in Pashupati Jo had heard about that we decided to visit. Turned out to cost $5 and there wasn't a body burning so what was the point? We ended up cruising for food instead. Plus Kath was still a mad house to drive through and getting off the road was priority one.
Ah the joys of night time. Getting ready to enjoy the next day's excitement. More bumpy road, more straddling another guy, more smog in the face and more bloody Nepalese drivers who don't know left from right, back from front or how to drive a car! Hahaha.
Day Five:
Same guesthouse as last time so another Germany breakfast and we were off. This time for Pokhara. We had decided to see if we could hand the bikes in 2 days early, grab some moneys back, and head to Lumbini (budhas birth place) instead and then on to Varanassi as well.
Bit of a long ride back but we knew what was in store for us when we arrived so that was a relief. No trying to bargain a room or argue over food prices etc.
We got back in Pokhara around 3pm and after a quick dust off of the bike and a couple of litres of siphoned fuel later (we could sell it back), we managed to return the bike and get a bit of money back too. Wow! Nice people. So we now had the time to visit a few more places. Lumbini (birth place of buddha) and Varanassi (back in India) were the plan...
Carbonated eggs...
So I woke up yesterday morning at around 6am needing to do my usual morning toilet visit. Ok, no problem.
So off i went, stumbling down the hall, wiping the sleep from my eyes, a cavernous yawn issuing from my mouth, shivering all the while in just my jocks till I reach the darkened bathroom. Flipping on the light, I squint my eyes and try to make my way in the shadows to the toilet. Such bright lights! So early in the morning! But I make it safely to the hole in the ground, step up onto the squatter, balance carefully on the slippery side tiles and get down to business. Finishing up I wash myself off with some hastily splashed cold water and a hand and then dry off with, well, you just don’t dry off really.
Another yawn later, a few more shaky sleepy steps and I’m back in bed, arse still dripping but I’m curled up in my warm duvet and ready to doze off once more until a more reasonable time to awaken (say midday) approaches.
10 minutes later and I find myself awake once more. Huh? Do I really need the toilet again? Ah well. Off I head and again go through the same routine. Must have been that all you can eat Thali I had for dinner last night!
5 minutes later and I’m back in bed. I snuggle up once more and try to quiet the mind to sleep again.
10 minutes later and, again, toilet!? Surely I didn’t eat this much? But I duly head off as when nature calls it’s best to answer quickly in these countries. You never really know what’s in store. By now my footsteps are a little more solid and I’m fairly awake and afterwards I wander back to bed thinking quietly to myself that I’ve never used a toilet so much so fast before! There’ll be nothing left of me soon at this rate.
But they say 3 times a day is good for you so it’s not so bad in one way.
Or not bad that is until the three times becomes seven. All in the space of a single hour! And it’s not like I’ve got diarrhea or anything but seven times? Surely that isn’t natural. And by now my thighs are getting shaky as squatting for so long a period is a real work out!
Eventually I get back to the room and wake Jo ready to start a new day. We’re planning on heading off from Nepal today. Maybe back to India?
Jo welcomes me with a lovely morning call of “You ok? You look like shite”. Hmmm, lovely. I was feeling a little weird though I had to admit and every time I burped I found it tasted like carbonated eggs. Unique is a nice way to describe the taste.
So putting it down to the eggs I’d had for breakfast the day before being bad, I reply that my belly is a little gas filled in feeling but that I’m ok.
As the day wears on however it feels like my stomach just keeps on filling, like a balloon being filled with air to bursting point. And to top it off a local orchestra sets up inside, practicing for their next concerto along with a guy playing drums and a local petting zoo whose animals are high on prozac! Lots of noise and movement inside.
I really should have sold tickets to the show…
Luckily (maybe), that afternoon we bump into some American guys we’d met on the circuit and when they hear about my musical stomach they tell me not to worry too much until I get the sulfurous burps.
Huh! I have those! Worry? What’s wrong with me? Is it bad? Is it terminal? Am I going to die? I knew it! I’m going to die! But I’m too young to die? Arrrrghhhhh! What to do with my last few moments?!
“Hmmm” they say. If it’s the sulfurous burps, you need medication. Otherwise it sticks around for ages (they’d both had the same feeling a few days earlier).
So calming down and learning I’m not really about to join the circus in the sky we head to the pharmacy and grab the recommended medicine. I’m definitely ready for the healing to begin – I’d missed lunch already, had a small breakfast and was quite keen to eat once more.
Walking back to the guesthouse we then bump into an English couple who also ask how we are and upon hearing of my ‘illness’ promptly diagnose me with giardia.
Interesting! Haven’t had that one before.
So now I’m two tablets into my carbonated egg tablet course and hoping giardia is not the real cause. No real problem if it is though. Try everything once they say and right now I am feeling pretty good.
We’re about to hire motorbikes again too and head for a week touring around Nepal. A mission to Everest could be on the cards…
So off i went, stumbling down the hall, wiping the sleep from my eyes, a cavernous yawn issuing from my mouth, shivering all the while in just my jocks till I reach the darkened bathroom. Flipping on the light, I squint my eyes and try to make my way in the shadows to the toilet. Such bright lights! So early in the morning! But I make it safely to the hole in the ground, step up onto the squatter, balance carefully on the slippery side tiles and get down to business. Finishing up I wash myself off with some hastily splashed cold water and a hand and then dry off with, well, you just don’t dry off really.
Another yawn later, a few more shaky sleepy steps and I’m back in bed, arse still dripping but I’m curled up in my warm duvet and ready to doze off once more until a more reasonable time to awaken (say midday) approaches.
10 minutes later and I find myself awake once more. Huh? Do I really need the toilet again? Ah well. Off I head and again go through the same routine. Must have been that all you can eat Thali I had for dinner last night!
5 minutes later and I’m back in bed. I snuggle up once more and try to quiet the mind to sleep again.
10 minutes later and, again, toilet!? Surely I didn’t eat this much? But I duly head off as when nature calls it’s best to answer quickly in these countries. You never really know what’s in store. By now my footsteps are a little more solid and I’m fairly awake and afterwards I wander back to bed thinking quietly to myself that I’ve never used a toilet so much so fast before! There’ll be nothing left of me soon at this rate.
But they say 3 times a day is good for you so it’s not so bad in one way.
Or not bad that is until the three times becomes seven. All in the space of a single hour! And it’s not like I’ve got diarrhea or anything but seven times? Surely that isn’t natural. And by now my thighs are getting shaky as squatting for so long a period is a real work out!
Eventually I get back to the room and wake Jo ready to start a new day. We’re planning on heading off from Nepal today. Maybe back to India?
Jo welcomes me with a lovely morning call of “You ok? You look like shite”. Hmmm, lovely. I was feeling a little weird though I had to admit and every time I burped I found it tasted like carbonated eggs. Unique is a nice way to describe the taste.
So putting it down to the eggs I’d had for breakfast the day before being bad, I reply that my belly is a little gas filled in feeling but that I’m ok.
As the day wears on however it feels like my stomach just keeps on filling, like a balloon being filled with air to bursting point. And to top it off a local orchestra sets up inside, practicing for their next concerto along with a guy playing drums and a local petting zoo whose animals are high on prozac! Lots of noise and movement inside.
I really should have sold tickets to the show…
Luckily (maybe), that afternoon we bump into some American guys we’d met on the circuit and when they hear about my musical stomach they tell me not to worry too much until I get the sulfurous burps.
Huh! I have those! Worry? What’s wrong with me? Is it bad? Is it terminal? Am I going to die? I knew it! I’m going to die! But I’m too young to die? Arrrrghhhhh! What to do with my last few moments?!
“Hmmm” they say. If it’s the sulfurous burps, you need medication. Otherwise it sticks around for ages (they’d both had the same feeling a few days earlier).
So calming down and learning I’m not really about to join the circus in the sky we head to the pharmacy and grab the recommended medicine. I’m definitely ready for the healing to begin – I’d missed lunch already, had a small breakfast and was quite keen to eat once more.
Walking back to the guesthouse we then bump into an English couple who also ask how we are and upon hearing of my ‘illness’ promptly diagnose me with giardia.
Interesting! Haven’t had that one before.
So now I’m two tablets into my carbonated egg tablet course and hoping giardia is not the real cause. No real problem if it is though. Try everything once they say and right now I am feeling pretty good.
We’re about to hire motorbikes again too and head for a week touring around Nepal. A mission to Everest could be on the cards…
Nov 20, 2007
More space travels
In Tatopani on the trek there was a Bob Marley bar who offered 'Space Bread' for sale. All Bob Marley bars have ganja foods. Seems to go with the name. Jo and I had passed as I was pretty much over that stuff since SE Asia. I had in fact only drunk a single night since leaving even.
But when we got back from biking round Pokhara we met one of our Israeli friends from the trek who had brought some back with him. He asked if we'd join him in eating it and as he'd asked for a little one, good for two people, we thought it'd be ok between three of us. Why not?
It started slow (as usual) but turned out to be quite strong. The bread itself was delicious! Like a doughnut but nicer. Without the weed it would be a real treat. We spent the night watching Pulp fiction (I remember very little) and it was a real nice mellow night in the end. And when eating dinner (we ate a lot!), every time I looked at Jo i could see he was gone and we'd have a good laugh. Was a good trip in that it came in waves. Lucid enough to think about what you were doing, then going into the deep end and then coming out again wondering what you'd just done (o;
These Belgian girls came and sat with our group for a bit too at some stage. They tried to engage us in conversation and as said, for a moment or two we'd be able to respond and then WHAM! we were off on our own little world tour again. they must have thought us quite weird, hahaha.
Jo and I both woke up remembering saying goodbye to people but not having a clue who had left - this turned out to be a bummer as we'd said bye to some guys we'd have liked to talk to a bit more. But we'll see them again no doubt. And yeah, we both had a good night with no bad consequences.
Probably enough for another month though. I'd say longer but let's be realistic. We are going to Europe. We are going to Holland. We are going to Amsterdam. We are going to get wasted.
But when we got back from biking round Pokhara we met one of our Israeli friends from the trek who had brought some back with him. He asked if we'd join him in eating it and as he'd asked for a little one, good for two people, we thought it'd be ok between three of us. Why not?
It started slow (as usual) but turned out to be quite strong. The bread itself was delicious! Like a doughnut but nicer. Without the weed it would be a real treat. We spent the night watching Pulp fiction (I remember very little) and it was a real nice mellow night in the end. And when eating dinner (we ate a lot!), every time I looked at Jo i could see he was gone and we'd have a good laugh. Was a good trip in that it came in waves. Lucid enough to think about what you were doing, then going into the deep end and then coming out again wondering what you'd just done (o;
These Belgian girls came and sat with our group for a bit too at some stage. They tried to engage us in conversation and as said, for a moment or two we'd be able to respond and then WHAM! we were off on our own little world tour again. they must have thought us quite weird, hahaha.
Jo and I both woke up remembering saying goodbye to people but not having a clue who had left - this turned out to be a bummer as we'd said bye to some guys we'd have liked to talk to a bit more. But we'll see them again no doubt. And yeah, we both had a good night with no bad consequences.
Probably enough for another month though. I'd say longer but let's be realistic. We are going to Europe. We are going to Holland. We are going to Amsterdam. We are going to get wasted.
Motorbikes in Nepal
So Jo had been having withdrawl symptoms from motorbikes since i met him again in Delhi. Sweats at night. Bad cough. Pale complexion. Weight loss. He'd not been looking so good. So when we got back from the trek we hired bikes. It was either that or lose Jo i fear.
We hired a 150cc sport road bike (The 'Gladiator') and a 125cc cruiser (The 'Enticer').
We'd met some kiwi girls on the trek who we then ran into in Pokhara. When they heard of the plan to hire bikes they asked us if we'd let them sit on the back and they'd pay half. Yeaaah! Hence we could afford two (o: Although we ended up losing a helmut and that cost us a bit )o;
We cruised around the area seeing some sights and otherwise just cruising, swapping bikes as we went. Cruisers are awesome. Comfort plus. But the sports bikes have speed and that is fun...
I also got to use a clutch for the first time on a bike and that was all good. Can't wait to own one.
We hired a 150cc sport road bike (The 'Gladiator') and a 125cc cruiser (The 'Enticer').
We'd met some kiwi girls on the trek who we then ran into in Pokhara. When they heard of the plan to hire bikes they asked us if we'd let them sit on the back and they'd pay half. Yeaaah! Hence we could afford two (o: Although we ended up losing a helmut and that cost us a bit )o;
We cruised around the area seeing some sights and otherwise just cruising, swapping bikes as we went. Cruisers are awesome. Comfort plus. But the sports bikes have speed and that is fun...
I also got to use a clutch for the first time on a bike and that was all good. Can't wait to own one.
Annapurna circuit
We had come to Nepal to trek. What else is there? I mean really...
We had either Everest or the Annapurna circuit to choose from. Or some other little walks. But we were here to tackle the big boys! But which one?? World's biggest mountain or world's best views?
In the end Annapurna won out seeing as they're about to build a road through the whole thing and we reckon, turn it into a package tour destination. Sad for us but good for the locals - access to hospitals etc
Ok. So going cheap we first went and bought 6 kilos of muesli to take up, some powder milk, tea bags, coffee and instant noodles. Then a map and a guidebook to avoid a real one and we were good to go.
Day One:
We walk to the local bus station and catch a bus to Besishahar. This is where the trek begins. We grab a cheap room for a buck each, eat some samosas for tea and crash ready to begin the trek in the mornin.
Day Two:
We start a walkin. Almost get lost before we begin cause the path is hidden to buggery but we start walkin. At first the path is a road with -what the hell! - is that a tractor i'm sharing this trek with? and a truck? Oh, this is going to be fun... Thankfully the vehicles are soon left behind and the serious trek begins. Oh, nope. Still a road (o; We walk for around 5hrs (no point getting tired on the first day!) and decide to stop in the town of Bahundanda. So far all blue sky and sun. Hats and sunnies are on, t-shirts are soaked in sweat and water is being drunk like a Polish guy with beer.
We've also heard that if you offer to eat at the guesthouse you can stay for free and so today begins our "No pay" policy that lasts until the pass a week later.
Day Three:
Today we have another 5 hours or so of walking to do to reach the village of Tal. We set off and move at our usual pace (This turns out to be quite quick as we pass a lot of people and towards the end of the trek we find we leave every we meet at the start behind and so by the end we are with all new people once more).
There are amazing wateralls all along the trek route. Far more spectacular than the ones I paid to see in Vietnam! Weather also continues to be superb.
What is not superb is meeting the Maoists. Rebels some call them. Bastards is a term I prefer. We met these lovely folks just before we reached Tal. Having heard they were 5 minutes ahead of us we stopped for a think of how to deal with the situation. We'd been told they were there 10 minutes earlier but had dismissed it as a joke - the guy had been laughing after all. Then 5 mintues later we met a group of guys who had refused to pay and had had fist sized rocks hurled at them - bugger! While we thought it over (I was all for refusal) a group of Israelis came along and we decided to join up so that as a bigger group, violence might not seem so wise a move on their behalf.
Upon reaching the maoist post, we found our path blocked. They physically stood in our way and pushed us back if we tried to push our own way through - and they had sticks. Big ones. In the end the Israelis haggled with them for around an hour (I still stupidly wanted to push through) and they reduced the 'fee' from 2000 rupees to 500 ; still enough to be annoying.
We paid in the end with the israelis this 'student' price as there were girls with us and there was no real reason to be a hero. They also told us we were welcome to leave without paying but that we would run into their friends further on and be charged 4000! (This turned out not to be true and in reality we wouldn't have had to pay anything - but walking past them may not have been fun).
It seems they always work between 8am and 5pm and before and after these times they don't stop you. They actually have a schedule they stick to! They also stopped collecting two days later thankfully and may be why we came across no more. They were around on the Everest trek too and asking for similar monetary 'donations' to help their cause from these trekkers as well.
The worst part is that when we asked for an explanation of why we were paying and for what the money would be used, they had no real answers. Sad really. But for my 500 rupees I demanded a photo and we got a receipt as a souvenir too so not all was lost (o;
Day Four:
Leaving the maoists behind we pushed on for Timang. In reality we never really had goals of where we'd end the night but more just general ideas. We just kind of walked till we'd had enough.
And I think it was about here that things started to get a little nipply. By now we're sleeping with thermals and woolen hats on and I remember spending the day wrapped up in our down sleeping bags. Dinner was around the kitchen fire of the guesthouse along with the owners and their two young kids (friendly with the kids and the parents will love ya!)
Day Five:
Another lovely walk. It was also our one day of 'rain' if that's what you'd call it. It kind of drizzled but we needed no raincoat until it began to snow. This started maybe 10 minutes before we reached the guesthouse and so was no real worry. It also provided a perfect back drop the next morning with the snow capped trees and lightly dusted ground reminding me of book covers advertising christmas in Norway or something.
Day Five:
From Pisang we headed for Manang. Here we would have a day of acclimitisation, visit some of the surrounding sights like Ice Lake (again, for acclimitisation as they're 1100m above Manang) and attend a lecture on altitude sickness too.
In the end we stayed in a small viallge 20 minutes before Manang called Braga. This was much quieter, cheaper and on the whole, nicer than Manang. Some Israelis we'd met earlier (there were dozens of them on the trek that we met along the way!) had walked to Manang and back and so we avoided a pointless 40 minutes ourselves.
This turned out to be a brilliant piece of advice too. We were the only trekkers in our guesthouse the first night and the room and hotel was warm. The food was also good and it was the original bakery on the whole circuit - he made us fresh banana cake with chocolate icing for breakfast the next morning on request (o;
Day Six:
Day for acclimitising.
We headed first (after our banana cake of course) for Ice Lake. Located 1100m above Braga it is a perfect height for getting used to the altitude and the views were said to be superb. We bought ourselves a loaf of 'trekkers bread' (turned out to be like one giant bread crumb - drier than ) and some nak cheese (yaks are the males only - so avoid any cheese products offered by them!) and 3 hours later reached the lake. It was pretty crappy itself really but the views could not have gotten much better. By now the Annapurna's were in full view.
We then practically ran down the hill again, beating our shadows to the bottom (not that hard whn you think about it) and managed to also squeeze in the afternoon altitude sickness talk. This was also well worth it as i'd never really learnt much about the true symptoms or causes before - they need a talk like this for Kilimanjaro!
We were also going to look at the local caves but a landslide had blocked them off and the local Lama who blesses you for the final pass had moved on for the season as it had gotten a tad cold for him. Ah well. We ate some more cake and relaxed instead.
Day Seven:
A week already?! Time was moving fast! We were going to go for Ledar but after the talk we'd added an extra day for acclimitisation. Jo also had a bit of a cold so we didn't want to rush too much. And what was the rush? When were we going to be here again? And rush back to India? I don't think so!
Instead we made it to Yak Kharka and relaxed. Again. We did a lot of relaxing on the way (o: There really wasn't much here other wise. I think we were in bed by 5pm and after a spot of music for a change, we were dead in our beds until around 7 the next morning.
Day Eight:
Again, we had planned on pushing on to High camp maybe (around 4800m) but due to the talk we were still backing down a bit. So we made a relatively short walk to Thorung Phedi of around 3 hours.
Here we relaxed from around midday, eating cinnamon buns and saving energy ready for the climb the next day over the pass. Some of the people with us made a move up the hill to the pass and back for a little more acclimitisation but we sat happy in the dining hall, visualising the climb instead. We were about to do it the following day anyway so why ruin the surprise? (o;
Day Nine:
Up at 5am, we discovered half the camp had already left off. It was dark and cold so why the rush? The pass wasn't exactly going anywhere!
By the time we left the sun was up and apart from 3 others we were the last to depart. A quick coffee and some muesli for breakfast and we were set. I also popped a ginseng pill and a snickers and 10 minutes later (coffee too), I was flying! To be honest I never felt any effects this time. It was easier walking than on the first day in a way. Jo was going well too and we made good time up the hill to reach the top around 10am or so. Around 5415m or so.
And even here, at the top of a mountain, there was a tea house! They were everywhere on this trek. It was a totally different trekking experience to back home. Here you hike from village to village and can eat normal food at each. Admittedly, prices get up a bit but even at the last village, before you go over the pass, we were eating cake and so on for dinner!
After a few touristy photos at the summit to prove we'd made it, we began the descent. Here we suddenly found the going a lot tougher. My old man knees and hips were not loving the jarring descent down the zig zag path. Jo was fine though - must be that etxra year of life, wearing mee down, hahaha.
Oh and some of the paths were pretty dodgy too. Thin little icy walk ways where if you fell, it wouldn't be the end of the world but it would be a bloody pain in the arse to climb back up again!
So over the pass and we'd made it to Muktinath. Here we had a good celebratory meal at the Bob Marley Bar (does any country not have ones of these? It's like how Irish bars are EVERYWHERE!!!!!) and a really really good hot (actual hot) shower. Or Jo did. It seems I turned the hot water off when i had mine and so it was cold enough to freeze the balls on a brass monkey! I just assumed Jo had used up all the hot water. I then spent the night listening to everyone go on about how good the showers were, their first hot one in weeks etc etc, Yep. Rub it in guys. Rub it in. Thanks.
Day Ten:
Going from Muktinath to Kagbeni (and eventually on to Marpha) had some of the nicest parts of the entire trek for me. From Muktinath to Kagbeni is perfect. And that is using the word to its fullest.
The track is a very gradual down hill. Yes, that's right - downhill! And it was sunny and just nicely warm and there was no rush at all. There were also no people around. And we were both on a high after completing the pass and so every little thing we saw was worthy of delight. Ice particles and frozen ponds on the side of the track kept us smiling for hours.
From Kagbeni to Marpha however was a completely different story.
The landscape resembled the Nishilawa dessert lands in the second star wars movie. Chewbacka would have felt right at home here. Hot shimmering sands blown unrelentingly into our naked unprotected eyes. Or they were protected. Only my grade A, space proof, gold rimmed, diamond studded, blue blocker aviators just weren't quite up to task. It was a one step forward, blown two steps back, kind of walkin. Not fun.
To matters even better, we went off road, taking a short cut down a river bed at one stage only to get stuck on the wrong side of the river and ending up taking an extra 2 hrs to reach our destination; with wet feet I might add! But to Marpha we made it.
Eventually.
Day Eleven:
Marpha is the apple capital of the circuit. Perhaps even of Nepal. And its apple crumble and fresh juice speak volumes in support of this claim. Their custard, resembling more a scrambed egg or heap of melted cheese, begs otherwise. I'd suggest having the apple cake straight!
From here we headed to Kalopani, feasting on 2c apples as we went. Fresh off the trees in the adjacent paddocks, you couldn't get better!
And when we reached Kalopani, we had the added knowledge of hot springs being only one town away. And our guesthouse once more had hot showers (this time for me too) and a perfect special (not hash) Nepalese lasagne. Delish.
Day Twelve:
We set off once more with Tatopani our goal. Only today the dream was to become a reality. We made it in at around 7pm. After checking in and grabbing a quick bite to eat we headed off to the hot pools. Told they were closed (by both signage and locals) we steadfastly pushed on anyways. We got to the pools around 9pm and sure enough, they had closed for the night. But by paying a dollar instead of 50c we managed to talk the guy into opening a pool for us and so we got to enjoy a quiet night under the stars with just the six of us soaking it up. Perfect evening. Soften all the muscles tense from almost two weeks of walking and as for the feet - indescribable.
Day Thirteen:
So being the lazy buggers we are. We decide to skip Poon hill and instead finish the trek by jeep (o; We walk for maybe 3 hours and then grab a jeep for 3 dollars to take us to Beni where the trek ends. Takes about an hour I think.
In Beni we then managed to grab a spot on the roof of a bus heading to Pokhara and so our trek was over. This was also one of the best bus rides i've ever been on. Full moon. Clear sky. Ipod on. Sleeping on the roof of a bus. Brilliant.
Amazing time it was.
Nice food.
Awesome people.
Picture perfect views.
Up to the pass was a challenge well worth it.
Right to the end it was great.
No problems really.
Awesome.
We had either Everest or the Annapurna circuit to choose from. Or some other little walks. But we were here to tackle the big boys! But which one?? World's biggest mountain or world's best views?
In the end Annapurna won out seeing as they're about to build a road through the whole thing and we reckon, turn it into a package tour destination. Sad for us but good for the locals - access to hospitals etc
Ok. So going cheap we first went and bought 6 kilos of muesli to take up, some powder milk, tea bags, coffee and instant noodles. Then a map and a guidebook to avoid a real one and we were good to go.
Day One:
We walk to the local bus station and catch a bus to Besishahar. This is where the trek begins. We grab a cheap room for a buck each, eat some samosas for tea and crash ready to begin the trek in the mornin.
Day Two:
We start a walkin. Almost get lost before we begin cause the path is hidden to buggery but we start walkin. At first the path is a road with -what the hell! - is that a tractor i'm sharing this trek with? and a truck? Oh, this is going to be fun... Thankfully the vehicles are soon left behind and the serious trek begins. Oh, nope. Still a road (o; We walk for around 5hrs (no point getting tired on the first day!) and decide to stop in the town of Bahundanda. So far all blue sky and sun. Hats and sunnies are on, t-shirts are soaked in sweat and water is being drunk like a Polish guy with beer.
We've also heard that if you offer to eat at the guesthouse you can stay for free and so today begins our "No pay" policy that lasts until the pass a week later.
Day Three:
Today we have another 5 hours or so of walking to do to reach the village of Tal. We set off and move at our usual pace (This turns out to be quite quick as we pass a lot of people and towards the end of the trek we find we leave every we meet at the start behind and so by the end we are with all new people once more).
There are amazing wateralls all along the trek route. Far more spectacular than the ones I paid to see in Vietnam! Weather also continues to be superb.
What is not superb is meeting the Maoists. Rebels some call them. Bastards is a term I prefer. We met these lovely folks just before we reached Tal. Having heard they were 5 minutes ahead of us we stopped for a think of how to deal with the situation. We'd been told they were there 10 minutes earlier but had dismissed it as a joke - the guy had been laughing after all. Then 5 mintues later we met a group of guys who had refused to pay and had had fist sized rocks hurled at them - bugger! While we thought it over (I was all for refusal) a group of Israelis came along and we decided to join up so that as a bigger group, violence might not seem so wise a move on their behalf.
Upon reaching the maoist post, we found our path blocked. They physically stood in our way and pushed us back if we tried to push our own way through - and they had sticks. Big ones. In the end the Israelis haggled with them for around an hour (I still stupidly wanted to push through) and they reduced the 'fee' from 2000 rupees to 500 ; still enough to be annoying.
We paid in the end with the israelis this 'student' price as there were girls with us and there was no real reason to be a hero. They also told us we were welcome to leave without paying but that we would run into their friends further on and be charged 4000! (This turned out not to be true and in reality we wouldn't have had to pay anything - but walking past them may not have been fun).
It seems they always work between 8am and 5pm and before and after these times they don't stop you. They actually have a schedule they stick to! They also stopped collecting two days later thankfully and may be why we came across no more. They were around on the Everest trek too and asking for similar monetary 'donations' to help their cause from these trekkers as well.
The worst part is that when we asked for an explanation of why we were paying and for what the money would be used, they had no real answers. Sad really. But for my 500 rupees I demanded a photo and we got a receipt as a souvenir too so not all was lost (o;
Day Four:
Leaving the maoists behind we pushed on for Timang. In reality we never really had goals of where we'd end the night but more just general ideas. We just kind of walked till we'd had enough.
And I think it was about here that things started to get a little nipply. By now we're sleeping with thermals and woolen hats on and I remember spending the day wrapped up in our down sleeping bags. Dinner was around the kitchen fire of the guesthouse along with the owners and their two young kids (friendly with the kids and the parents will love ya!)
Day Five:
Another lovely walk. It was also our one day of 'rain' if that's what you'd call it. It kind of drizzled but we needed no raincoat until it began to snow. This started maybe 10 minutes before we reached the guesthouse and so was no real worry. It also provided a perfect back drop the next morning with the snow capped trees and lightly dusted ground reminding me of book covers advertising christmas in Norway or something.
Day Five:
From Pisang we headed for Manang. Here we would have a day of acclimitisation, visit some of the surrounding sights like Ice Lake (again, for acclimitisation as they're 1100m above Manang) and attend a lecture on altitude sickness too.
In the end we stayed in a small viallge 20 minutes before Manang called Braga. This was much quieter, cheaper and on the whole, nicer than Manang. Some Israelis we'd met earlier (there were dozens of them on the trek that we met along the way!) had walked to Manang and back and so we avoided a pointless 40 minutes ourselves.
This turned out to be a brilliant piece of advice too. We were the only trekkers in our guesthouse the first night and the room and hotel was warm. The food was also good and it was the original bakery on the whole circuit - he made us fresh banana cake with chocolate icing for breakfast the next morning on request (o;
Day Six:
Day for acclimitising.
We headed first (after our banana cake of course) for Ice Lake. Located 1100m above Braga it is a perfect height for getting used to the altitude and the views were said to be superb. We bought ourselves a loaf of 'trekkers bread' (turned out to be like one giant bread crumb - drier than ) and some nak cheese (yaks are the males only - so avoid any cheese products offered by them!) and 3 hours later reached the lake. It was pretty crappy itself really but the views could not have gotten much better. By now the Annapurna's were in full view.
We then practically ran down the hill again, beating our shadows to the bottom (not that hard whn you think about it) and managed to also squeeze in the afternoon altitude sickness talk. This was also well worth it as i'd never really learnt much about the true symptoms or causes before - they need a talk like this for Kilimanjaro!
We were also going to look at the local caves but a landslide had blocked them off and the local Lama who blesses you for the final pass had moved on for the season as it had gotten a tad cold for him. Ah well. We ate some more cake and relaxed instead.
Day Seven:
A week already?! Time was moving fast! We were going to go for Ledar but after the talk we'd added an extra day for acclimitisation. Jo also had a bit of a cold so we didn't want to rush too much. And what was the rush? When were we going to be here again? And rush back to India? I don't think so!
Instead we made it to Yak Kharka and relaxed. Again. We did a lot of relaxing on the way (o: There really wasn't much here other wise. I think we were in bed by 5pm and after a spot of music for a change, we were dead in our beds until around 7 the next morning.
Day Eight:
Again, we had planned on pushing on to High camp maybe (around 4800m) but due to the talk we were still backing down a bit. So we made a relatively short walk to Thorung Phedi of around 3 hours.
Here we relaxed from around midday, eating cinnamon buns and saving energy ready for the climb the next day over the pass. Some of the people with us made a move up the hill to the pass and back for a little more acclimitisation but we sat happy in the dining hall, visualising the climb instead. We were about to do it the following day anyway so why ruin the surprise? (o;
Day Nine:
Up at 5am, we discovered half the camp had already left off. It was dark and cold so why the rush? The pass wasn't exactly going anywhere!
By the time we left the sun was up and apart from 3 others we were the last to depart. A quick coffee and some muesli for breakfast and we were set. I also popped a ginseng pill and a snickers and 10 minutes later (coffee too), I was flying! To be honest I never felt any effects this time. It was easier walking than on the first day in a way. Jo was going well too and we made good time up the hill to reach the top around 10am or so. Around 5415m or so.
And even here, at the top of a mountain, there was a tea house! They were everywhere on this trek. It was a totally different trekking experience to back home. Here you hike from village to village and can eat normal food at each. Admittedly, prices get up a bit but even at the last village, before you go over the pass, we were eating cake and so on for dinner!
After a few touristy photos at the summit to prove we'd made it, we began the descent. Here we suddenly found the going a lot tougher. My old man knees and hips were not loving the jarring descent down the zig zag path. Jo was fine though - must be that etxra year of life, wearing mee down, hahaha.
Oh and some of the paths were pretty dodgy too. Thin little icy walk ways where if you fell, it wouldn't be the end of the world but it would be a bloody pain in the arse to climb back up again!
So over the pass and we'd made it to Muktinath. Here we had a good celebratory meal at the Bob Marley Bar (does any country not have ones of these? It's like how Irish bars are EVERYWHERE!!!!!) and a really really good hot (actual hot) shower. Or Jo did. It seems I turned the hot water off when i had mine and so it was cold enough to freeze the balls on a brass monkey! I just assumed Jo had used up all the hot water. I then spent the night listening to everyone go on about how good the showers were, their first hot one in weeks etc etc, Yep. Rub it in guys. Rub it in. Thanks.
Day Ten:
Going from Muktinath to Kagbeni (and eventually on to Marpha) had some of the nicest parts of the entire trek for me. From Muktinath to Kagbeni is perfect. And that is using the word to its fullest.
The track is a very gradual down hill. Yes, that's right - downhill! And it was sunny and just nicely warm and there was no rush at all. There were also no people around. And we were both on a high after completing the pass and so every little thing we saw was worthy of delight. Ice particles and frozen ponds on the side of the track kept us smiling for hours.
From Kagbeni to Marpha however was a completely different story.
The landscape resembled the Nishilawa dessert lands in the second star wars movie. Chewbacka would have felt right at home here. Hot shimmering sands blown unrelentingly into our naked unprotected eyes. Or they were protected. Only my grade A, space proof, gold rimmed, diamond studded, blue blocker aviators just weren't quite up to task. It was a one step forward, blown two steps back, kind of walkin. Not fun.
To matters even better, we went off road, taking a short cut down a river bed at one stage only to get stuck on the wrong side of the river and ending up taking an extra 2 hrs to reach our destination; with wet feet I might add! But to Marpha we made it.
Eventually.
Day Eleven:
Marpha is the apple capital of the circuit. Perhaps even of Nepal. And its apple crumble and fresh juice speak volumes in support of this claim. Their custard, resembling more a scrambed egg or heap of melted cheese, begs otherwise. I'd suggest having the apple cake straight!
From here we headed to Kalopani, feasting on 2c apples as we went. Fresh off the trees in the adjacent paddocks, you couldn't get better!
And when we reached Kalopani, we had the added knowledge of hot springs being only one town away. And our guesthouse once more had hot showers (this time for me too) and a perfect special (not hash) Nepalese lasagne. Delish.
Day Twelve:
We set off once more with Tatopani our goal. Only today the dream was to become a reality. We made it in at around 7pm. After checking in and grabbing a quick bite to eat we headed off to the hot pools. Told they were closed (by both signage and locals) we steadfastly pushed on anyways. We got to the pools around 9pm and sure enough, they had closed for the night. But by paying a dollar instead of 50c we managed to talk the guy into opening a pool for us and so we got to enjoy a quiet night under the stars with just the six of us soaking it up. Perfect evening. Soften all the muscles tense from almost two weeks of walking and as for the feet - indescribable.
Day Thirteen:
So being the lazy buggers we are. We decide to skip Poon hill and instead finish the trek by jeep (o; We walk for maybe 3 hours and then grab a jeep for 3 dollars to take us to Beni where the trek ends. Takes about an hour I think.
In Beni we then managed to grab a spot on the roof of a bus heading to Pokhara and so our trek was over. This was also one of the best bus rides i've ever been on. Full moon. Clear sky. Ipod on. Sleeping on the roof of a bus. Brilliant.
Amazing time it was.
Nice food.
Awesome people.
Picture perfect views.
Up to the pass was a challenge well worth it.
Right to the end it was great.
No problems really.
Awesome.
Pokhara
What should I write about? What do you really want to hear? So much happens when you travel!
Like just getting to a guesthouse became a mission and a half in Pokhara. Driving in circles, two different people trying to give directions to different guesthouses, the place we choose was full but the owner kicked a guy out to let us move in... etc
Otherwise this place is pretty much a city. Looking forward to getting out into the open and away from all the people.
Like just getting to a guesthouse became a mission and a half in Pokhara. Driving in circles, two different people trying to give directions to different guesthouses, the place we choose was full but the owner kicked a guy out to let us move in... etc
Otherwise this place is pretty much a city. Looking forward to getting out into the open and away from all the people.
Heading to Nepal
So me and Jo stayed on for another night in Delhi as there was some festival on in Nepal (and India) that meant all the trains were packed out. We caught one at midday on the 1st Nov and travelled over night to Gorakphur and then got a bus to the Nepali border (Sunali) and then a bus from there to Pokhara.
The night train would have been sweet but we shared some dinner with a local lady (seemed rude to decline though it sure wasn't great) and this seemed to make her assume she had earned the right to share my sleeper bed with me on the way along with her son. Now i wouldn't usually mind but they just wouldn't sit still! And these beds are not exactly large so I was crunched up and mmmm, fun times.
The bus to the border was a bus ride but the one to Pokhara was a bit more exciting. We travelled on the roof with a local guy we'd met who was determined to make us his brothers. We've since learnt we have an entire extended family over here that we didn't even know about!
On the way in it all looked a lot like India but the closer we got to Pokhara the better it got...
The night train would have been sweet but we shared some dinner with a local lady (seemed rude to decline though it sure wasn't great) and this seemed to make her assume she had earned the right to share my sleeper bed with me on the way along with her son. Now i wouldn't usually mind but they just wouldn't sit still! And these beds are not exactly large so I was crunched up and mmmm, fun times.
The bus to the border was a bus ride but the one to Pokhara was a bit more exciting. We travelled on the roof with a local guy we'd met who was determined to make us his brothers. We've since learnt we have an entire extended family over here that we didn't even know about!
On the way in it all looked a lot like India but the closer we got to Pokhara the better it got...
Jo's back...
Title says it all (o:
We're back travelling together and on with the original plan of trekking in Nepal and then on to the great meaty nation of Europe...
We're back travelling together and on with the original plan of trekking in Nepal and then on to the great meaty nation of Europe...
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