Oct 3, 2007

New Delhi

I just met an amazing Israeli couple who have made my life perfect. I have gone from being a confused and mildly daunted wee lad in the middle of a giant crazy, dusty, dirty, smelly country full of cows to an old school pro who takes such trivial problems without even needing a grain of salt or a spoonful of sugar (maybe a slight exageration there - i do like sugar).

They have told me of a place up North where i will now spend the next two weeks. I met them at a bookstore where they were off loading of their lonely planet. I asked if i could buy it and, longish story shorter, they then took me out for lunch where we planned the next part of my stay in India (they have been here 2 months are now of to Laos).

The city where i will spend the next while is called Dharamsala. It is the home of the Dalai Lama and if i leave today (which I am - on a bus, sleeper styles, single, top row, at the front - oh yeah, I'm a pro now when it comes to travel thanks to the israelis again) then I can actually go to his teachings! It lasts two more days and i hope to catch at least one of them. Should be amazing. Not a common event obviously.

Next door is also McLeod Ganj which is the headquarters of the Tibetan Government in exile and where the old man lives. Up here I will be taking a 10 day introductory buddhist and meditation course. I have really been wanting to do this for a while so it is all falling in to place - as usual! Everything in life always works out if u give it a bit of time!!

I then plan to head South to Rajasthan where there are a million and two things to do including a good old camel trek across the desert. - i hope to get a real moody, salivating camel that spends its time farting and burping and biting everything in sight. I figure this will double the experience and funny stories on offer and give me a real appreciation for the next time i ride some oither crazy animal

So life is now well and truly back on the smiley and easy travelling track. I have a guidebook that does nothing but show me what an impossible task it is do India in a month or even four and has created an urge to come back to this country already - before i have even left! I also have a desire now to see Tibet and Israel, oh and a stomach full of my first indian dish in India.

Will the dreaded Delhi belly make an appearance? If it does it's an experience so no problem! oTHERWISE IT WAS THE FIRST OF MANY BEASUTIFL DISHES I PLAN ON making my way through in this country (sorry, caps was on and this comp is too slow to show what i have typed for like ages) .Anyways, I will do Nepal with Jo and then maybe Europe or perhaps come and stay here again. Or i will do Europe and then come back here afterwards over land through China and Tibet. Oh so many options out there! The world is just so big.

But i have time and my travel bug, fat and satisfied on all South East Asia had to offer, has suddenly developed a new hunger. I feel that Asia was merely an entree and now is time for the main course. India is going to be a blast!

Wooooooooh! Oh I love when it all turns out right!

Delhi

India. This place is dirty, ugly, beautiful, smelly, noisy, serene and I have only been here one day!

I flew in yesterday on one of the noisiest plane rides I've ever been on. I remember thinking, Shite! If this is what it is like on a plane then leaving the actual country deaf is a distinct possibility. They just shout everything, all the time, non stop!

When we arrived at the airport I walked in with two westerners who live in Delhi and who I hoped (after I told my tragic tale about now travelling alone having lost my travel mate and explaining that I had done nothing whatsoever in terms of planning this portion of the trip) for an offer to come live with them. Didn't happen but they did teach me some rudimentary Hindi.

So i cruised through customs looking for where and when to declare the food I had on me but before I knew it i was outside and so if there are customs or something in the airport, they're well hidden.

As i've said, I have made no plans at all for India. I have no guidebook and I haven't a clue about anything except that the Taj mahal is here somewhere, Delhi is the capital (right?) and that they eat curries in Punjabi. I figure I'm set.

Anyways, when I steppped out of the airport everybody instantly tries to get you into a cab. I had no money and no idea where I was going though so this wasn't my idea of a good time. One particularly insistant driver in the end forced me to make a run for the only other whities I could see, pretending they were my friends and so showing that I wasn't in need of a taxi; thank you very much!

They were an Aussie couple on holiday who had a pre-booked tour and offered to give me a lift to their hotel. Why not I figured? Didn't have a clue where else to go. So I jumped in with them and we drove about an hour to here (not sure where I am just yet). Their hotel was $60US a night so after saying thanks for the free lift I headed off to find something more my price range.

I was advised of somewhere cheap in a nearby building of some sort and so off I walked only to find a rather unpleasant man behind the guesthouse counter. Or he was nice - when he was offering me a room for $60US - but he quickly changed to resemble a pitbull with a bad case of gas when I explained i wasn't paying that much, and yes i understood that it wasn't wise to wander the streets at night, and no i wasn't just ignoring his advice, and no i didn't think i knew more than him about his city, and yes this is his country and very different to mine, and no i wasn't a "pro" traveller etc etc etc. I just wanted cheap is all.

He was discounting like crazy too and it got down to 500 rupees (ooooh) but this is still like $20 and so i said no thanks and cruised. He pretty much kicked me out in the end when i declined his final offer. And i have to say i was and am very pleased I didn't lose my cool and was always polite because this guy could use a fist in the face like... yeah, something witty (o:

But at his hotel i did meet a nice american couple who gave me a map, let me look at their lonely planet and told me another girl was paying 300 rupees for a room in the same place. Hmmm. So i walked next door, was offered a room for 300 before the other guy came over and the room got bounced to 500 again (cartels!) and so i waved down the only taxi for miles around, threw it on meter and started to drive to Paharganj where rooms are much cheaper (around 100-200 rupees). I was also feeling really unsafe in the other area too. That's a first for me travel wise.

Back in the taxi \ tuk tuk \ rickshaw thing we were driving along with me practising my 4 words of Hindi when i spotted an ATM machine. Realising i had no money i asked him to pull over and i went to grab some cash. You swipe your card but then keep it and get your money out. not like other machines wher it goes in and then comes out last once you're done. I did my transaction, it was invalid and then i waited for my card to come back out to try again (remember, it never actually went in to begin with). So i stood there for like 10 minutes freaking out that it had eaten my card when i suddenly realised it was in my pocket! Aaaraggh! This is after a flight remember (o:

So i grab some moneys out, realise there's a guesthouse next door, I'm over this and just want to sleep, it's 150 Rupees a night, i don't even haggle, just say yes and go to pay my driver. He asks for 100R even though the meter said 20R (he's since turned it off and is now claiming there was no meter!?!). I argue for like 10 minutes flatly refusing to pay more and his price keeps falling with a million sob stories about night charges and all this crap. I offer him a 10R tip if he'd just go away and eventually it works when some other drivers come over and tell him to take it (after they'd first tried to get in on the minimum night charge idea of course!).

So i go up to my room which is a mini rubbish heap with dirty sheets, monsters under the bed, ebola viruses floating everywhere, muggers in the cupboard, rapists under the pillow and Chucky making a return coming through the roof and so on but the mattress is cushy and there's a tap so i take it.

I don't dare shower cause i'd contract something for sure but i manage to rinse my face (while being watched by a very spooky looking Indian guy across the coridoor) and head off to bed. I lock up everything possible, shutter the windows, jam the door closed with a metal rod and put my bag against it too. I then try to sleep while feeling sure I am somehow going to die in this little room tonight.

Or it wasn't that bad but I am sure getting out of this place, this city in fact today. I don't care where I go but I'm going. India is going to be amazing but not here, not yet.

So I am off now for a quick something to eat and that's another reason to run from here. The infamous 'Delhi belly'. Everyone seems to get sick here so I figure the rest of the country sounds like a good option. I am off to buy a lonely planet - travel without one i have found is a challenge. I gave my Asian one to some girls at the Thai airport who had just arrived and I think I was like an angel come from heaven to them. They were looking lost but after a little advice I think they'll be fine.

But now I'd better go and figure out where I am going. First bus, first train, to wherever, I don't care, I'm on it!

Sep 30, 2007

Sep 29, 2007

Substance abuse

If I was drug tested right now for the last few months of my travels, what would I come back positive with...

Marijuana
- weed
- charis
Mushrooms
Beedle nut
Alcohol


Not too bad really after 4 months of travel and having been offered next to everything under the sun! (o:

Sep 28, 2007

Full moon party

So we returned to Koh Phangan for the full moon party. We had enjoyed our 'detox' on Koh Tau (cause that worked! ha.) and we were now back and ready to party once more. I had a sprained ankle but that wasn't going to keep me from one of the biggest beach dance parties I know of - 15 000+ of all the party people from every nation joining together for one night of drunken dancing debauchery.

So Aussie and I headed to the beach around 8:30pm or so and met up with a group of maybe a dozen other aussies who we had seen chilling on the beach in deck chairs. Being sworn enemies in all environments, we were instantly embraced, offered some free buckets and so our night began.

Buckets, a couple of beers and a bottle of whiskey thrown in for good measure later, and we were well on our way to a night of questionable remembrance. After maybe an hour we decided glow paint was in order for true party atmosphere and so we headed off to grab our own to achieve some awesome personalized sty-leez.

Me the next morning (after a rinse in the sea)...



The design I chose and why my night was such a laugh...


Before it all began...

The bucket stalls all along the beach...


After slapping on the paint my night took a turn; that's for sure. With the paint making my back look like madonna's lips on shrooms, we sat down for a few more beers and settled in to wait for a more sensible dance hour like 1am or so.

In comfy deck chairs, sitting dumped out like boy racers in a bucket seat, our eyes mere slits, we watched the night pass by. Reaching a level of relaxation whereby mz body was beginning to resemble melted cheese, I was rudely broken free five minutes later by a tap on my shoulder. Curious as to what was wanted I turned around to find two grinning girls smiling down at me. Huh? Wasn't sure what was going on but I liked where it looked to be headed and I instantly, compassionately, forgave them.

"Free Kisses?" one of them asked, pointing mischeviously behind me.

Oh shite! Of course! My back! I'd completely forgotten about it already. But rising to the occassion (literally), I jumped up, landed a few wet ones on her and her friend (and then a few more) and then went back to the drinkin (I mean there were literally thousands of single girls at this place so why the rush to end the night so soon?).

Mmmm. So from there the night progressed to non-remembrance. Awesome times were had I'm sure though. Haha, no. I remember it. Dancing, walking the beach, chasing after Grant, grabbing snacks like a burger, more drinking, more dancing and in between, more kissing.

By the next morning I was actually declining kisses as it was just getting to be too much. And what am I doing still on the beach you ask? With the "literally thousands of single girls" on hand? Guess it was just a night to dance and a once in a life time (so far) occassion where that came in a close secod but a second all the same (I was also quite pissed and wasn't really caring about much at this stage anyway).

It turned out pretty sweet really. Awesome night. Perfect next morning too.

Watched the sun rise lying on a picturisque white sand beach (ignoring the spilt beer, urine stains, vomit and rubbish littering it), lying next to two of the most beautiful Swiss girls I have ever laid eyes on (ignoring the fact they were high on mushrooms and conversation was stilted to say the least), sipping the last of my beer (ignoring the fact it was warm, picked up off the beach and full of sand), and listening to the music in the background, the dancers and the party in general slowly wind to a close (ignoring the fact the music was trance, the dancers all high on something and that the party was going to continue for another 6 hours easy). Like I said; perfect morning.

Then I went to grab Grant from mellow mountain and it was back to the guesthouse with plenty of laughs along the way before crashing onto a bed and sleeping the rest of the day away.

Ko Tau

Turtle island it's called. Either because there used to be lots of turtles here or because it's shaped kinda like a turtle some say. Like most things in Asia, no one really knows or cares anymore.

This is where to go to dive and snorkel and beach it up in Thailand. I agree. After the half moon party and while we waited on the full moon party, we headed here to detox and recover.

We arrived feeling a little seedy still from the half moon night. But after a quick dip in the water and seeing the snorkeling on offer right off the beach from us we were quick to recover.

First day we just relaxed and checked out the scenery. Or the scenery near us anyways. We'd met up with an English girl in the taxi too who we shared a room with.

We pretty much spent most days chilling on the beach and snorkelling. Awesome clear waters and if you go to some of the neighbouring bays, there are awesome coral reefs, fish swarms, sharks and all sorts.

I never really saw much though as we got a little too drunk one night and things went bad...

hurt ankle...

Half moon party

It had arrived and we were prepared - a bottle of Mehkong whiskey and a heap of 25c, 640ml beers. The cheapest option in town you see. Walking out I also spotted two Austrian guys drinking the same brews and so seeing they were of similar minds, we invited them to join.

There are lots of 'moon parties'....





We headed to the beach to see if we could find a few more fellow drinkers to hang out with until it was time to dance (the actual party really gets going at 2am with the last D.J starting at 9:30am!). We first met some German girls, two English guys and two others drinking at a table beachside and so we joined them.

It was a perfect half moon though...



We drank together, headed down to a bar we'd scouted out the previous day, met up with some more drinkers and proceeded to 'prepare' ourselves for dancing over a couple of games of pool.

It's a massive psy-trance dance off with glow paint everywhere...



Now things start to get interesting.



After a bit of pool and a few more drinks, me and aussie realise we're in with the two german girls. Though we're both as sharp as a thimble when it comes to picking up signals, this time it wasn't too hard as they were both saying they wanted to sleep with us out loud - only it was in German. Thankfully the Dutch guy translated but was quickly shushed by the girls and we played like we hadn't heard him. He tells us to go with a bit of a wink and the four of us head off to the half moon party together.

We walk the whole way and when we arrive we last like 10 minutes on the dance floor before my german girl starts to act funny. I was getting real paranoid and was asking her friend if she thought i was a bad kisser or something (she'd started to pull back and i was figuring maybe i was too wasted?) but she assured me it was nothing like that. then the girl tells me she has a boyfriend and takes off! What the hell?! So i go after her (no idea why) and so too do Aussie and his girl. the other german girl wants to find her and we figure she's started for home and are about to ditch the germans all together and go back to the party when she suddenly reappears.


Next thing I'm walking her home and Aussie and the other german are back to the party. We get back to her place and decide a swim is definitely in order. She'd been on about swims all night and so we head out into the ocean. 150m later and we're still only ankle deep and stumblin along through sharp as hell coral. We realise a swim just ain't gonna happen and decide to head in.

So we head back to her hut and head in for the night. She goes into the bathroom to do whatever girls do and i stripped down and went to get into bed. Then i hear voices outside and realise it is Grant and the other German girl! I run to the door and using all of my german vocab, start to yell "Nein, nein!" but next thing i know they're there at the door. I was about to open my mouth and tell Grant to head for the beach when I notice that his german girl is covered in blood. Huh?

Turns out they'd got a taxi back from the party real soon after us and had run instead of paying (Germany's idea). Running through a dirt car park some dogs had barked at them and Aussie had jumped away from them in fright andsmacked straight into the german, sending her flying. Nice moves, haha.

So I go grab my antiseptic dry powder, play doctor for a bit and when me and aussie realise that the night with these two is truly over we decide to head back to the party. All we end up doing when we arrive is pass out as it's about 7am and we're dead beat! Met this awesome hot chick though and decided to start kissing every girl i meet on the cheeks and lips and say it is a traditional kiwi greeting. She goes for it all good, hahah.

The next morning... it was still going when we left at around 10am!


So packing it in, we headed back to the beach and our guesthouse around 10am as we had a boat to catch i didn't want to miss. Walking Aussie home was tops too. he was a goner. kept falling asleep on the side of the road and wobbling all over the place. cars were swerving out of the way (all two of them) and having a right old laught at us.

when we got home, we slept in till 2 on the beach. Aussie in a hammock and me on the sand. Got wicked sun burnt and then started drinking again at the afterparty further down the beach. and now i'm sitting here waiting to head to a new island and start again (our tickets were transferable luckily as we missed the boat by a heap)

In the sober(ish) light of day I also find I'm covered in mustard and sauce. Front, back, all over. No idea why or how. We also have to admit that we ended up spending more time walking to and from the place than we actually managed inside of it. And it cost us like 25 kiwi to get in which is heaps over here! We've made a pact that there'll be no girls at the full moon...

Ko Phangan

"Swaying coconut trees, brooding mountains, ribbons of indigo and turquoise water" - this place is everything a tropical paradise should be.

But we were here to party! It was time for the half moon party to begin!


We booked in the cheapest spot we could find at the beach closest to where the half moon party was to be held (we could walk there that way, save ourselves 50c, and buy another two 640ml beers) and then settled in to wait it out for the next night.


We spent the day collecting coconuts in preparation for the following morning as they're said to be a brilliant hangover cure. We also scouted out a bit of the beach and went for a snorkel and swim. It was a nice spot I have to say. Had some cool yellow stingray with blue spots too.

Another bonus was the local primary school located next door. This allowed us to eat our meals at the school tuk shop and save a load. The meals were tiny (designed for 5 year olds after all) but they were tasty and even if you bought five of them, it still worked out cheaper than a meal at the guesthouse.

Ko Samui

Our first island goal in the gulf was Samui. Described as being like 'a beautiful woman who wears too much make-up", I wasn't expecting too greater things. Grant had already done all three islands before and so had a general idea of what we were heading into.

When we arrived it was raining. Yay! So instead of sticking in and hoping for the bext we decided to try and outrun it. We booked a ferry straight to Ko Phangan, the middle island, and went to explore the town port a bit while we waited for the ferry to depart.

We used the net and ate some food before returning to grab our ticket to go. Only when we returned the lady who'd organised it tells us 5 minutes before the boat is due to leave that the weather is too bad and the ferry isn't coming. What? Bugger!

She then offers us a more expensive alternative boat and a night at her guesthouse for a discounted price. And the water looks calm at our end... Arrrggghhh! We instantly assume we're being scammed! So we go to the other travel agents but quickly learn the boat really is stuck. Seems the weather is a lot worse on the other side of the island.

She then try's for her guesthouse again but I tell her we'll happily sleep for free at the port instead in the plastic chairs. She laughs this off, realises we're cheaper than a Thai whore and offers us her guesthouse for free! A/C, t.v. etc all over again! Awesome. And she made us dinner and drove us there and back (o:

So we spent one night in Samui and then caught the first available ferry across to Pangyan the next morning. Not too bad a place from what I saw.

Heading south

Met up with Aussie yet again in Thailand and we've decided to head south together to check out the southern islands and the infamous moon parties that are held there.
Again, still can't find a good pic of him but he's the tall dork in the back (o: